Just over 15 kilometers from the provincial capital of Asti, on a hill extending northeast of the city, lies the medieval village of Montemagno.
The name has been known since 974, but the town’s history is certainly much older. Like most villages and towns in Monferrato, Montemagno has endured centuries that have brought it to us well preserved, as the stage of battles, wars, and sieges. At times under Frederick Barbarossa, at times under the Marquises of Monferrato, and later under the lords of Asti, the village was razed to the ground in 1290. After being rebuilt, it passed to the powerful Turco family, then to the Savoy, and later from one noble family to another until the Risorgimento, reaching the present day.
The symbol of the village and key to its urban development is undoubtedly the splendid castle, today privately owned by the Counts Calvi di Bergolo. As participants in the “Open Castles” initiative, they allow visits on predetermined days.
Over the centuries, the fortress underwent various architectural changes, transforming it from a fortress to a castle and then to a noble residence. Originally dating back to 981, it was destroyed along with the village in 1290 and later rebuilt, serving again as the site of sieges and battles. Its irregular plan follows the contours of the land, and in some areas the walls are particularly imposing to accommodate natural slopes. The walls feature Ghibelline merlons—swallowtail-shaped, unlike the square Guelf-style—and corner towers.
The current appearance is the result of the last major intervention at the beginning of the 1700s. A distinctive feature of the castle is its internal courtyard with an elliptical shape, decorated with arcades forming a portico. Notable too are the finely decorated arched windows with bands of terracotta and tuff, friezes, and the more recent balconies.
The historic center of the village features twelve alleys marked with Roman numerals, radiating out to converge at the Piazza della Chiesa dell’Assunta, the parish church. Built in the 1600s by the Montalero family in Baroque style, the church is particularly striking, facing a scenic staircase interrupted by three terraces that overlook the square and offer views of the surrounding hills and vineyards.
Also facing the square, adjacent to the staircase, is the Church of the Confraternity of San Michele, painted white and yellow, built in the 18th century and nestled between houses.
In Montemagno, it is pleasant to stroll past ancient palaces of different architectural styles, reflecting a complex history. The path around the castle hugs the walls, revealing the hidden side of the fortress and offering views across a wide landscape of vineyards, hills, and distant Alpine peaks. A telescope, installed by the municipality, allows visitors to spot distant peaks and identify villages on the hilltops.
Well-maintained houses line the western bastion, where there is a lively inn, Cadabra, enjoying the sun late into summer evenings.
Below the large wall is a spacious area that hosts the market and, above all, games of tamburello. Just outside the village is the Church of San Vittore e Corona, dating back to 1345; only the bell tower and part of the Romanesque apse remain amid greenery. About 2 kilometers from the village stands the Sanctuary of Madonna di Vallino.
Montemagno is also known for summer music festivals and for the “Pane al Pane” event, which promotes the local Monferrato bread.