In the Upper Monferrato, at 310 meters above sea level on a wide plateau bordered by the Lemme and Albedosa streams, lies the wine-producing village of San Cristoforo. Although its territory is relatively small, it is by no means less interesting.
The village has Roman-Augustan origins, and archaeological evidence shows that the settlement developed along the new communication routes built by the Empire. It appears to have existed continuously until around the year 1000, at the end of the so-called Early Middle Ages. From this period dates the construction of a tall polygonal watchtower, Torre Gazzolo, built to defend against frequent Saracen raids from Liguria. From these years, the village gained military and political significance. By the 12th century, it was surrounded by walls and bastions, many military buildings were added, and most notably, the castle was constructed.
As was typical, power passed through various feudal lords, from the Obertenghi to the Parodi and then to the Spinola family, who held control from 1399. From the 17th century onwards, the village was embroiled in violent battles involving Franco-Savoyard troops, later Piedmontese forces, and in the 18th century the Doria of Montaldeo, before becoming part of the Kingdom of Sardinia. San Cristoforo continued to follow the historical developments of Piedmont and Italy well beyond the Napoleonic era.
Meanwhile, the castle, the enduring symbol of the fief, returned to the Spinola family in 1826, who sold it to private owners in 1957. The new owners restored it and opened it to the public for events and gatherings. The castle has a quadrangular plan, spreads over four floors, and lies within a walled enclosure that includes other buildings such as the “Casa Lunga,” the guesthouse, the parish church, and the stables, covering a total area of 6,000 square meters—together forming the “castle complex.”
The castle can be accessed from four points in the village: a main entrance from Piazza Martiri della Benedicta and three smaller entrances.
Over the centuries, the castle appears to have undergone few major architectural changes. Notable is the entrance defense, consisting of a courtyard outside the main walls. Access to the baronial palace—the noble part of the fortress—is via an external staircase, and both the exterior and interior walls were frescoed.
As mentioned, the parish church is partially incorporated into the castle walls. Originally, it was a private chapel for the marquises and nobles, built at the same time as the castle. In 1589, a new church was erected on the site, and it assumed its current appearance only in 1894 after the last restoration works.
Along the village streets, four small rural chapels can be found, and three kilometers away stands the ancient parish church of Santa Maria di Lemme, dating back to around the year 1000. Now part of Gavi’s territory, it unfortunately remains in poor condition.
In this land of excellent wines, it is worth highlighting a small workshop where high-quality socks made from Egyptian cotton or cotton thread are still produced, sometimes even custom-made. The workshop of Mr. Emilio is worth a visit, both to observe the artisanal production process and to purchase what might be the last hand-crafted socks made in the village.
